Edinburgh

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Where to eat in Edinburgh: my 6 favourite restaurants

Nobody eats well following the tour buses. These are the 6 restaurants in Edinburgh I'd send a friend to: the cheap neighbourhood place, the one locals keep to themselves, the splurge that's genuinely worth it. No photo menus.

Makars Gourmet Mash Bar£15–25 · Scottish comfortRight below the castle, this cosy spot does hearty Scottish comfort food built around proper mash: haggis, neeps and tatties, stews and pies. Directions
Mary's Milk Bar£3–5 · GelatoA beloved little gelato bar by the Grassmarket making small-batch Italian gelato with Scottish ingredients: flavours change daily and the queue says it all. Directions
Oink Hog Roast£5–8 · Hog roastA tiny Edinburgh institution serving one thing perfectly: slow-roasted hog rolls with crackling and your choice of sauce. Directions
The Devil's Advocate£20–35 · Scottish · gastropubA buzzy gastropub down a hidden close near the Royal Mile, in an old Victorian pump house, great modern Scottish plates and a serious whisky list. Directions
The Scran & Scallie£25–40 · Scottish gastropubA Michelin-recommended gastropub in Stockbridge from chef Tom Kitchin: elevated Scottish comfort food (the fish and chips and pies are superb) in a relaxed setting. Directions
The Witchery by the Castle£60+ pp · Scottish · fine diningA gloriously gothic, candlelit restaurant right by the castle gates: oak panelling, tapestries and theatrical Scottish fine dining. Directions