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Where to eat in Florence: my 14 favourite restaurants

Nobody eats well following the tour buses. These are the 14 restaurants in Florence I'd send a friend to: the cheap neighbourhood place, the one locals keep to themselves, the splurge that's genuinely worth it. No photo menus.

Osteria Pastella★ 4.3 · €20–60 · TuscanThe one you've seen on Instagram: handmade tagliolini finished inside a whole wheel of Parmigiano, in a buzzy central room. Directions
Il Santo Bevitore★ 4.4 · €30–70 · Modern TuscanA modern Oltrarno favourite: refined Tuscan cooking and a serious wine list in a candlelit, gently trendy room. Directions
Gusta Pizza★ 4.5 · €10–20 · PizzaThe Oltrarno's cult wood-fired pizzeria by Santo Spirito: heart-shaped pizzas, a queue out the door, cash only. Directions
Zeb★ 4 · €30–60 · TuscanA tiny standing-room deli-osteria run by a mother and son: a short chalkboard of handmade pasta and Tuscan classics. Directions
Cibrèo★ 4.2 · TuscanA Florentine institution near Sant'Ambrogio: deeply traditional, no-pasta Tuscan cooking, from the formal restaurant to the cheaper trattoria next door. Directions
I Fratellini★ 4.6 · €1–10 · Wine windowAn 1875 hole-in-the-wall wine window: crusty panini and a glass of Chianti handed straight to the street. Directions
Vivoli★ 4.5 · €€ · GelatoFlorence's oldest gelateria (1930), near Santa Croce: no cones, just cups of dense, classic gelato. Directions
Perché no!...★ 4.6 · € · GelatoA 1939 central gelateria famous for silky semifreddo and seasonal flavours: a favourite of purists just off Via dei Calzaiuoli. Directions
All'Antico Vinaio€7–12 · SandwichesFlorence's most famous schiacciata sandwich shop, with queues down Via dei Neri for enormous, brilliant panini. Directions
Gelateria dei Neri€3–6 · GelatoA top artisan gelateria near Santa Croce with rich, inventive flavours: the locals' choice over the touristy spots near the Duomo. Directions
Osteria Santo Spirito€25–40 · TuscanA lively osteria on the best square in the Oltrarno, known for its truffle gnocchi and buzzy outdoor tables. Directions
Ristorante La Giostra€40–65 · TuscanA romantic, fairy-light-strewn restaurant run by a Medici descendant: generous Tuscan cooking and a glass of prosecco to start. Directions
Trattoria Mario€15–30 · TuscanA bustling family trattoria near San Lorenzo market, open since 1953: shared tables, a chalkboard of Tuscan classics, lunch only and cash only. Directions
Trattoria Sostanza€30–50 · TuscanA historic trattoria going since 1869, famous for its butter chicken and bistecca, with communal tables and zero pretension. Directions