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Where to eat in Hong Kong: my 16 favourite restaurants

Nobody eats well following the tour buses. These are the 16 restaurants in Hong Kong I'd send a friend to: the cheap neighbourhood place, the one locals keep to themselves, the splurge that's genuinely worth it. No photo menus.

Australia Dairy Company★ 4 · ~HK$40-60 per person · Cha chaan tengThe most famous breakfast in Kowloon, on Parkes Street in Jordan: scrambled eggs on toast, a steamed milk pudding and a milk tea, served in about ninety seconds by waiters who want the table back in fifteen minutes. Directions
Chuen Kee Seafood Restaurant★ 3.7 · ~HK$250-400 per person · Cantonese seafoodThe best-known of the seafood restaurants along the Sai Kung waterfront, and the one most people end up at. Directions
Kam's Roast Goose★ 4.1 · ~HK$100-150 per person · Roast gooseRoast goose the way Hong Kong measures it. Directions
Kau Kee Restaurant★ 3.6 · ~HK$60-90 per person · Beef brisket noodlesBeef brisket noodles on Gough Street in Sheung Wan, from a shop that has been doing one thing since the 1930s: brisket braised for hours in a clear broth, or in a curry version, ladled over flat rice noodles or egg noodles. Directions
Kowloon City Market (cooked food centre)★ 3.7 · ~HK$40-80 per person · Cooked food centreThe wet market of Kowloon City with a cooked food centre on the top floor: a hall of stalls with plastic stools where the neighbourhood eats roast meats, congee, noodles and Thai food (Kowloon City is Hong Kong's little Bangkok)… Directions
Lan Fong Yuen★ 3.7 · ~HK$40-70 per person · Cha chaan tengA cha chaan teng, the Hong Kong diner, on Gage Street since 1952, and the place that claims to have invented silk-stocking milk tea: strong tea pulled through a cloth filter and poured over condensed milk. Directions
LockCha Tea House (Hong Kong Park)★ 4.3 · ~HK$150-250 per person · Chinese tea house, vegetarian dim sumA tea house in the K.S. Lo Gallery in Hong Kong Park, just below the Flagstaff House Museum of Tea Ware: Chinese teas served properly at low tables, with vegetarian dim sum, and a shop of teas and teaware to take home. Quiet… Directions
Mak's Noodle (Wellington Street)★ 4.1 · ~HK$50-70 per person · Wonton noodlesThe wonton noodle shop of Central, on Wellington Street since 1968 and famous for the smallest bowl in the city: a few springy egg noodles, four shrimp wontons and a clear broth, meant to be eaten in minutes and ordered again. Directions
Mammy Pancake (Tsim Sha Tsui)★ 4.4 · ~HK$25 per waffle · Egg waffles, street foodHong Kong's egg waffle, the bubble-shaped gai daan zai, from a hole-in-the-wall by the Star Ferry pier in Tsim Sha Tsui that made the Michelin street food list: crisp outside, soft inside, eaten hot from the paper bag while it… Directions
Ozone (Ritz-Carlton, 118th floor)★ 4.3 · ~HK$180-250 per drink · Cocktail barThe highest bar in the world, on the 118th floor of the Ritz-Carlton at the top of the ICC tower in West Kowloon: a terrace nearly 500 metres up, with the whole of Victoria Harbour and Hong Kong Island laid out below. Directions
Sing Heung Yuen★ 4 · ~HK$40-60 per person · Dai pai dongA dai pai dong, an open-air street kitchen under a tarpaulin on Mee Lun Street in Central, with one dish everyone orders: instant noodles in a tomato broth with a fried egg or a pork chop, and a crispy bun with butter and… Directions
Tai Cheong Bakery★ 3.9 · ~HK$12 per tart · Bakery, egg tartsThe egg tart bakery of Lyndhurst Terrace, since 1954: a shortcrust shell rather than the flaky puff kind, filled with a wobbling custard, best eaten warm from the tray at the counter. Directions
The Peninsula (afternoon tea)★ 4.4 · ~HK$430 per person · Afternoon teaAfternoon tea in the lobby of the Peninsula, the 1928 hotel on Salisbury Road that calls itself the Grande Dame of the Far East: a three-tier stand of scones, sandwiches and pastries under the gilded ceiling, with a string… Directions
Tim Ho Wan (Sham Shui Po)★ 4.2 · ~HK$60-80 per person · Cantonese dim sumThe dim sum shop that put a Michelin star on plastic stools. Directions
Tim Ho Wan (Tsim Sha Tsui)Cantonese dim sumThe Tsim Sha Tsui branch of the cheapest Michelin-listed dim sum in the city, on Carnarvon Road, a few minutes from the MTR. Directions
Yat Lok Restaurant★ 3.4 · ~HK$80-120 per person · Roast gooseA tiny roast goose shop on Stanley Street in Central, run by the same family since 1957, with a Michelin star on the wall and a queue of office workers at lunchtime. Directions