A quick note before we dive in: Positano is the most photographed cliffside town on Earth, and the trick to making your trip great is knowing what 90% of visitors miss. Two nights here is plenty; three is generous; a week is wasted. Use this guide like advice from a friend who knows which boat goes to the secret beach and why the sunset from Le Sirenuse's bar is worth €25.
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Positano is a vertical fishing village on the Amalfi Coast: pastel houses stacked into cliffs above the Tyrrhenian Sea, lemon groves on impossible terraces, and the world's most famous beach-to-village shot. This complete Positano travel guide covers ferries from Sorrento, the Path of the Gods hike, the boat-only Da Adolfo lunch everyone remembers, the right hotel for the view-to-budget ratio, and the local rules that will keep you from looking like a cruise passenger.
Positano has just 4,000 permanent residents. The town climbs from sea level to 300 meters in less than 600 steps; the central «Spiaggia Grande» beach is the postcard. There are essentially no cars in the centre. Via Cristoforo Colombo loops around the top of town but the lanes down to the beach are pedestrian. The cliffside walking trail (Sentiero degli Dei, «Path of the Gods») is the most famous hike in southern Italy. The town's population triples in July–August; visit in May, June, late September or early October.
Whether you're staying for 2 nights as a base for ferries, or here for the day, the sections below cover the essentials: how to arrive (ferry beats road), where to find the un-touristy swim spots, the chef's-table dinners locals book, and how to leave with the best photos without paying €1000 a night.
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