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Where to eat in Seville: my 18 favourite restaurants

Nobody eats well following the tour buses. These are the 18 restaurants in Seville I'd send a friend to: the cheap neighbourhood place, the one locals keep to themselves, the splurge that's genuinely worth it. No photo menus.

El Rinconcillo★ 4.3 · €15-25 · Andalusian tapasThe oldest tavern in Seville, pouring since 1670, where the bill is still chalked on the worn wooden bar. Directions
Bodega Santa Cruz Las Columnas★ 4.4 · €10-15 · TapasA standing-room-only institution on the edge of Santa Cruz where cheap, generous tapas fly across the counter to a crowd that spills into the street. Directions
Bar El Comercio★ 4.4 · €5-8 · Churros and cafeA no-frills bar from 1904 famous for the best churros and thick hot chocolate in the old centre. Directions
Eslava★ 4.6 · €25-35 · Modern tapasOff the tourist track near the Alameda, Eslava is where Sevillanos send you for creative, award-winning tapas like the slow-cooked egg on a mushroom cake. Directions
La Brunilda Tapas★ 4.5 · €25-35 · Modern tapasA small, buzzy spot pulling some of the city's most inventive modern tapas. Directions
Bodeguita Romero★ 4.3 · €15-25 · AndalusianA warm family classic loved for its pringa and honest home-style Andalusian cooking. Directions
Az-Zait★ 4.6 · €40-55 · Modern AndalusianAn elegant, quietly ambitious kitchen near the Alameda that turns top Andalusian produce into refined modern plates. Directions
Ovejas Negras★ 4.4 · €30-45 · Modern tapasA stylish, modern tapas house in Santa Cruz with a short, sharp menu of beautifully executed small plates and a smart wine list. Directions
Lobo Lopez★ 4.4 · €30-45 · Contemporary SpanishCool, contemporary and reliably good, with a leafy patio and a menu of modern Spanish comfort food. Directions
Canabota★ 4.5 · €75-110 · Seafood tastingA Michelin-starred temple to Andalusian seafood, from the marble bar to a tasting menu built entirely around the day's catch. Directions
Abantal★ 4.6 · €90-130 · Fine dining tastingSeville's most celebrated fine-dining room, holding a Michelin star, where chef Julio Fernandez turns local ingredients into a polished tasting-menu journey. Directions
Egana Oriza★ 4 · €50-80 · Basque-AndalusianA classic upscale restaurant beside the Murillo gardens, long the go-to for a celebratory dinner of game, seafood and proper old-school service. Directions
Las Golondrinas★ 4.2 · €10–20 · Triana tapasThe beating heart of Triana: a two-floor, tile-covered institution where the neighbourhood packs the bar. Directions
Casa Cuesta★ 3.8 · €10–30 · AndalusianA century-old wine-shop-and-bar facing the Triana market, all marble and old bottles: come for the sevillano twist on the classics, the tortilla with whisky sauce, and a glass straight from the bodega. Directions
Bar Alfalfa★ 4.6 · €10–20 · TapasA tiny, always-packed corner bar on Plaza Alfalfa with a slight Italian lean. Directions
Las Teresas★ 3.9 · €10–20 · AndalusianAn 1870 bar hung with hams in the heart of Santa Cruz: narrow, atmospheric and genuinely good despite the crowds. Directions
Casa Morales★ 4.3 · €10–20 · Tapas & wineFounded 1850, one of Seville's oldest bodegas: wine drawn from giant clay tinajas, simple montaditos and chicharrones, zero pretension. Directions
Taberna Coloniales★ 4.3 · €10–20 · TapasThe Reddit favourite, and it earns it: hearty, generous, cheap plates on a pretty terrace at Plaza Cristo de Burgos. Directions