A quick note before we dive in: Prague is almost unfairly beautiful: a Gothic-and-baroque storybook that escaped the bombs of WWII largely intact. The trick is knowing how to dodge the crowds on Charles Bridge and find the real city: the riverside pubs, the hidden courtyards, the world's best (and cheapest) beer. This guide is the local layer that does exactly that.
Below: where to stay, the best restaurants & beer halls, our must-see sights + hidden gems, and everything on transport, money (it's NOT the euro!), language and free things to do.
Few cities are as walkable and photogenic. In one compact centre you get Prague Castle (the largest ancient castle complex in the world), the medieval Charles Bridge, the Astronomical Clock, baroque churches, art-nouveau cafés and a legendary pub culture: Czechs drink more beer per head than anyone on Earth, and it's superb. It's also remarkably affordable for Western Europe.
Spring (April–June) and autumn (September–October) are best: mild, pretty and (slightly) less crowded. December is magical for the Christmas markets but cold and busy. July–August is warm and packed; January–February is freezing, cheap and atmospheric with thin crowds.
2 days: Old Town Square & the clock, Charles Bridge, Prague Castle & St. Vitus, a riverside beer. 3–4 days (recommended): add the Jewish Quarter, Petřín Hill, Vyšehrad, the New Town and Vinohrady food scene, and a few hours just wandering. 5+ days: day trips to Kutná Hora (bone church) or Český Krumlov.
Old Town (Staré Město): in the heart of it all; beautiful but busy and pricier. Malá Strana: baroque charm below the castle, romantic and quieter. New Town (Nové Město): central, near Wenceslas Square, good value. Vinohrady: leafy, local, the best cafés and restaurants. Žižkov / Karlín: hip, cheaper, great nightlife and bistros.
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